This is genius

I am pretty sure this a piss take but its pretty fuckin brilliant and if not its even more genius. Click here to see a preview of Mr Tellers summer 2008 campaign for Marc Jacobs with Messrs Bjorn Borg and John McEnroe.

Knowing that we are big Juergen Teller fans here at the 'Jackanory' big up to 'ghfuse' for passing the link our way.

Hong Kong dong

It would seem that never a week goes by here on 'Whats The Jackanory ?' with out mentioning our favorite T-bone himself Terry Richardson. Not one to miss out on a marketing / promotional opportunity El Tel is currently 'Terryizing' Hong Kong through December 23. In association with Diesel, read all about it here, Terry has been paired up with local contemporary artist and illustrator Michael Lau for a special exhibition. Terry supplies new work from a recent trip to Rio and Michael one of the worlds most famous cult-toy designers has created some unique pieces of art encompassing all things Terry including a life size plastic double with erect dangly bit, above.

T-Bone . . . . Big pimpin

I am sure many of you have seen the new Belvedere Vodka ads lensed by the T-Bone himself Terry Richardson. So what does your $ 20,000,000 budget get you ? Well not only his raw sexually charged photographic stylings toned down for the masses, he has added his signature to the print campaign and then also brought himself, a trademark flannel shirt, his T4 and Vincent Gallo to the self directed TV spot, above. Now thats money well spent on luxury reborn ! I am sure Katy negotiated a fine package for the multi talented El Tel and his cohorts. As if the regular punter actually has a clue who Terry is and gives a monkeys anyways but someone thought it would bring bank.

Thanks to AVS who revealed the campaigns launch in an earlier post here.

*Update: Perhaps I should have added this sidebar earlier, particularly for those new to the blog, I am a big Terry fan and I wrote an earlier post here expressing my admiration, quote below. Hey fair play to him for cashing in I would if I could. To the anonymous commenter there is no hatred just a little irony. Come on the TV commercial is disappointing I was really looking forward to seeing something iconic and creative.

Taking the snapshot genre and Terryizing it Richardson has honed his art over the years and has in doing so become more then just a photographer, he is a brand, a corporation if you will, he being the Chairman, figurehead, spokesperson and sometime model. He is obviously a smart businessman who's shock and awe tactics haven't scared away commercial clientele . . . .

Contender for book of the year 2007 # 7

I have to admit I have been personally anticipating the latest contender for sometime: 'New York Look Book: A Gallery of Street Fashion' by Amy Larocca and 'Whats the Jackanory ?' friend and 'inspirator' Jake Chessum. Although there may appear to be a higher power at work behind this publication (New York Magazine) it is really the culmination of an ongoing collaboration between writer (Larocca) and photographer (Chessum). Working as a team since 2004 the duo troll the streets to seek out stylish New Yorkers and cajole them into a mini curbside studio where Jake does his magic with the camera and Amy pens a few personal words about the bt way of a revealing Q+A. The result is a centerfold spread which runs every week in the magazine. Well now the time has come for 'Look Book Gallery' the BOOK a 256 page compilation of all the hits and highlights. I got my hands on a signed copy today and it was well worth the wait.

I have known Jake for a few years now. I actually knew his pictures long before we first met. Our wives worked together once upon a time and so a get together was ordained. I have long admired his photography; anyone who is familiar with the editorial scene has undoubtedly been exposed to his signature work. The quintessential quirky Englishman who's signature is perhaps that there is no signature. One of the few photographers I know who still shoots every job on multiple formats (all film with a little polaroid 665 thrown in the soup). He always travels with a bag full of different cameras and isn't afraid to mix it up. He is a photographers photographer, comfortable in every situation with an uncanny knack of pulling in a result every time. A firm favorite with photo editors and art directors everywhere; he never fails to deliver and is equally at home with big time celebrities or the unknown as his wandering eye can be as revealing as it is subtle. Portraits, fashion, landscapes, studio, location, flash, daylight; Jake has the full arsenal. He is a true lover of the art, who's knowledge and insight I value immensely and he has one of the most baddass collections of photography books I have come across.

© Jake Chessum

Jake as with alot of us photographers with an editorial/commercial background has always dreamed of having a published book. Although this is a collaboration it has Chessums stamp all over it. It is terrific to finally see all the work together in one volume. The portraits although all shot on the street are shot against a white background with Jake having minimal time to connect with the subject and produce memoral imagery while letting their personalities and that of their individual style express themselves. Jake and the team hit the streets throughout the year, no matter what the weather; in case you were wondering he doesn't go out every week but they go out a couple of times each month and load up on as much material as possible, moving the portable studio to choice spots around Gotham as they go. Jake has continued to keep these photographs fresh as the demands of producing exciting work centered around a recurring theme week in week out for a magazine could exact a creative toll on any photographer.

© Tim Soter

Although nothing new conceptually the photographs are a compelling document of today's street scene and are a testament to the cities diversity and vibrancy as seen through the lens of one of its own migrant inhabitants; an Englishman in New York. Jakes background in graphic design played heavy on the final layout and sequencing of the book which can all be attributed to his own hard work and extra effort in personalizing the book. The initial run is massive; some 25,000 copies have been printed and although just released the book is already riding high on the Amazon charts.

With all these things it is important as photographers to maximize potential from such exposure and marketing tie ins. It will be interesting for all of us to see what new doors open and opportunities arise as there maybe some lessons we can learn from his success. I will keep you posted on all developments and the Mrs and I have been fortunate to be invited to the official launch bash next week; so expect a full report on all the glitz and glamour.

Here's to you Jake Chessum a diamond geezer !

Richardson & Son

Well it just wouldn't be right to bet back to business without mentioning Terry Richardson again now would it, only this time he's helping the old man, Bob.

For those of you who didn't know Terry isn't the only maverick in the family. Long before he whipped out the T4 and started 'Terryizing' us his dad Bob was the enfant terrible of the fashion photo world. He was a true maverick who's distinctive black and white imagery from the '60s and '70s helped capture an era; out with the fantasy and in with the reality that evoked his own edgy lifestyle. Bob didn't get into the game till his mid 30's but he enjoyed a meteoric rise to the top. Although difficult to work with his tumultuous personal life was intertwined with his art. He dated a slew of young women including Angelica Houston who became his muse at the tender age of 18. He battled with schizophrenia and lived hard experimenting with sex and drugs throughout his life. After making it big the constant battle with his demons won over and during the '80s he ended up homeless on the streets of Los Angeles.

'I wanted to put reality in my photographs. Sex, drugs and rock "n" roll. That's what was happening. And I was going to help make it happen. Boy they did not want that in America. Some of those editors were still wearing white gloves to couture.' Bob Richardson

Bob's relationship with his son Terry was very up and down to say the least. They didn't speak for many years. The pair even worked as a double act early on in Terrys career with Bob acting as art director on some of his sons first forays into the fashion world, but this didn't last.

'Mr. Richardson's pictures were radical because, more than showing youthful fashion in a liberated way, they sought to expose the life dramas that were then consuming young people.' Cathy Horyn The New York Times

Bob saw a resurgence in his own career in the mid 1990's when heroin chic was all the rage in fashion photography. Bobs edgy style was still relevant and was a continual inspiration to many shooters, fashion editors and designers. The enfant terrible was cool again and enjoyed his noteriety with a new adoring audience. I was lucky enough to attend a lecture Bob gave during this time in NYC. I have to be honest I don't remember much of the talk; I was a young one not aware of his legacy and influence but he was shit cool and only appeared a little worn around the edges.

'There's no textbook, no award, but there is this Bob Richardson school of photography. And it's an anti-school. He was the first guy who said it was OK to underexpose the film, to not show the clothes. So many photographers when I first started out idolized Bob. He was sort of an underground figure.' Bruce Webber

Bob died in 2005 at the age of 77 (read obituary here) and now two years later comes the first book dedicated to his work. Edited by Terry and art directed by Douglas Lloyd it is divided into three sections. The first is his early work from the '60s and '70s, the second is his autobiography with some snapshots he took and notes he wrote, the third consists of images he took on a cross-country roadtrip from L.A. to New York.

The book coming in at 352 pages is published by Damiani and is available September 1.

Barack V Barack

Well it turns out now that Vibe is going head to head with GQ, as they both feature Presidential hopeful Barack Obama on their September covers. In the right corner we have from the lower east side NYC representing Vibe the trouser snake himself and perennial 'Whats the Jackanory ?' feature Terry Richardson and in the left corner bringing some west coast cool representing GQ we have the Queen of the LA scene Peggy Sirota. Make your own mind up which one, if any you prefer.

Magazine under review . . . . W 09/07

Weighing in at a mighty 4.5 pounds and 640 pages the September issue of W is certainly a door stopper. The cover girl, Gwyneth 'I made you look, didn't think it was me did you ?' Paltrow comes courtesy of Steven Klein who continues his treatment on the inside, see more here. I have been trying to put my finger on who she looks like in these photos et volia she reminds me of the young Cybil Shepard ala The Last Picture Show.

Its chock a block full of ads up front and gradually gives way to more meaningful fair. Though its 299 pages before you get to the letter from the editors. Most of the pictures run pretty small in the front of book, a usual W trait. There is however a fantastic but intense full page portrait of Jodie Foster by Collier Schorr that really stands out.

Photo © Mert & Marcus

The well is heavy on the fashion with heavyweights Mert and Marcus, Craig McDean and Mario Sorrenti all contributing in their own inimitable styles. Although the one story that really caught my eye came courtesy of 'the Master' Juergen Teller, see here and here.

I wasn't going to go much further then this in reviewing the issue when I was thinking on Sunday what I was going to post this week, but on the back of Jeff Singers comment here on yesterdays post I guess it would be wrong not to expand a little on Teller and his shoot. Although I did give him a mention here last week.

Richardson V Teller, Terry V Juergen, America V Germany, Popculture V Eurostyle, White trash V Aristocracy, Hot dog V Bratwurst ? It's all about who's got the bigger sausage isn't it ? I haven't spent much time studying and comparing their personal assets but I admire both of these photographers immensely. To me Teller is the more sophisticated of the two, although both are practitioners of the point and shoot aesthetic he brings that European cool to his imagery. Like Terry he could be considered a one trick pony but he is so much more then that. His pictures are always engaging and he constantly manages to push the limit. Don't get me wrong I don't love everything these two do, if I had to favor one though I think Teller would be ahead by a nose.

Photos © Juergen Teller

I really like the fashion story Juergen has in W. It is quite an eye opener and really stands out amongst the other, more polished spreads which all feature young flawless models. This time out he gives Laura Dern his personal attention in 'Fashion Party' where she plays the Lady of the Manor adorned in tailored coats and shining evening numbers. Remember you can't judge the merits of a fashion story the same way as a portrait or reportage feature. Its supposed to be about the clothes and there is always a concept, no matter how obscure and irrelevant it may seem to the outsider but to the insider this is the backbone of the story.

'I depend heavily on the models personality; at least I wanted to depend on this because I'm interested in personal reactions' Teller (2002)

The idea is pretty obvious in this one and Dern certainly seems to have embraced her role. Its not a beauty story and while the pictures are for the most part extremely unflattering they are exquisite in their own right. While I don't think each shot is a masterpiece as a complete story it terrific, backed up by a strong layout. This is where W excels, while they might be a little stingy up the front of the book they give all the pictures the room they need here. I cannot imagine that Laura did not know what she was getting herself into. She has brought her skill set to the part, and turns in an enthralling performance. Its all make believe anyways, fashion fantasy, although I feel that these pictures (like alot of Tellers fashion work) would stand up on their own as individual portraits, they have an unnerving reality. I think these are the type of fashion photographs I like best, where they blur the line between the fantasy and reality.

Not one to just rant on on with my rantings I sought out a little professional help in analyzing this story a little further. I consulted with friend and super talented stylist Jennifer Hitzges to give greater insight on the shoot from the other perspective, heres her take on it and not a mention of an f-stop or filter to be found.

'I love it, it is a story about facade, how the wealthy have to keep up appearances and look good for the neighbors on the outside but lead a pretty nutty existence when they are on their own playing dress up in the big house. In some shots she is so composed and picture ready on the surface then in others she is indulging her need to be a child

The girl (her daughter ?) is just trying to fit in like her mother, trying to find her place in society she is younger and prettier but no less insecure and lonely, she probably needs anxiety pills to get herself out the door to face society

The final shot where she wears the blue coat reminds me of Anette Benning in American Beauty she looks like she is covering this unhappiness'

I wasn't thinking in these conceptual terms and looking for higher meaning. I like what I like and these pictures I likey.

An answer to a question ?

Photographs © Terry Richardson

Hey Andrew,

I have a question. What makes Terry Richardson Terry Richardson?
I am not speaking about his persona, mainly his photographs.

I started asking more questions and then started answering them myself so I guess I'll ask it this way. Why do you like Terry Richardson and why do you think he is hired for what he is hired to do?

Above courtesy of Sherman in response to Fridays post here, my thoughts follow below.

I like Terry Richardson's photographs, I like Terry ! There I have said it. I think he is one of those photographers that you can either take or leave, you either love him or hate him. Terry has been a fixture on the photographic scene for sometime now, and his influence is pretty far reaching. See his Flickr group here.

I have always had a soft spot for the point and shoot aesthetic. In my own pictures I try to have that spontaneity and freedom both in concept and execution although I choose to use a medium format camera, I like a little quality and clarity. Taking the snapshot genre and Terryizing it Richardson has honed his art over the years and has in doing so become more then just a photographer, he is a brand, a corporation if you will, he being the Chairman, figurehead, spokesperson and sometime model. He is obviously a smart businessman who's shock and awe tactics haven't scared away commercial clientele. I think his persona is intertwined within all his photographs as it should be for all of us, although he does chose to feature himself (and his dangly bits) whenever opportunity arises.

Terry has cashed his notoriety in big time and there is more to his repertoire then mere tit n' ass. His list of advertising clients is impressive and he is smart enough to put down the T4 when the situation demands. His resume includes clients like Gucci, Levi's, Miu Miu, Tommy Hilfiger, Club Monaco, Supreme, Hugo Boss, Stussy, Baby Phat, Jigsaw, Costume National, Hysteric Glamour and Sisley. See his latest campaign for Japanese retailer Uniqlo here. His editorial fashion work is multi faceted and there is often more to it technically and conceptually then anyone who is unfamiliar with this aspect of his work may give him credit for. Please go here to see a sampling.

Perhaps the true genius of Terrys talents is not only that he can seemingly manage to prise anyone, male or female from their clothes but that he has constantly produced signature imagery no matter what the genre, personal, editorial, fashion, advertising etc. This is particularly impressive considering the depth and breath of his celebrity portfolio. In a day and age when the Hollywood PR agent has more power then even the stars themselves and are only too quick to veto a photographer or idea that they feel may shed their prized clients in a negative light, it always amazes me how Terry manages to get his victims to do what they do for him. As any photographer who has been put in this nerve wracking position will a test half the battle is gaining some trust and developing a relationship however fleeting that will in turn lead to some sort of mutually creative collaboration. Lets face it Terry's got a reputation and brings his own star power, that counts for a lot, people are willing to give more and obviously trust him to portray them in a cool interesting way. But still you can't help but wonder was Terry told in advance of his Vibe Obama cover to keep everything PG-13 or to go for it and see what happens. Not that Barack would have been itching to get his kit off, but you wonder what the reaction of his people were when they heard Terry was on the way !

Terry is certainly a fixture of the New York scene and can often be caught wandering around the lower East side. I have always liked the humor and irony in his work, perhaps this is why I am personally drawn to it more then the work of other point and shoot practitioners Ryan McGinley and Wolfgang Tillmans. Although I think we have all seen Terry's dick plenty enough already and I am not particularly keen to see another tooth brush out the bum or certain toilet bowl stylings.

5B4 recently reviewed Terryworld below, it is really funny made me laugh as I am sure it would Terry, can't help but think that he doesn't take himself too seriously, life's too short as they say, maybe he is having the laugh on us ?

Terry Richardson has a book called Terryworld!
Terry Richardson has a cock!
Terry likes his cock!
Terry likes to photograph his cock and other cocks!
Terry likes to have sex!
Terry has lots of sex!
Life is hilarious!
Terry’s life is great!
Live fast, Die young! (for Darby)
My friends are fuckin’ cool!
There are no consequences to our behavior!
My cat’s ass is hilarious!
My girlfriend is so cute!
Last night she held a cookie that read “eat me” over her vagina! (Terry took a photo)
My list of friends includes famous people!
Kate Moss is a friend of mine!
Middle America is fuckin’ hilarious!
That girl’s tits are fantastic!
I drew a watch face on my cock and wrapped it around my wrist! (Terry took a photo)
Beastiality is shocking…but very funny!
The 2000’s are the new 1970’s!
Your life is boring!
Terry photographed a werewolf in a wax museum. It was so fake!
My parents are to blame!
My best friend made out with a tranny!
I never got back at my tormentors from high school!
This is low art!
Terry had the guy shit in the cat’s box!
She blew me with a bag over her head!
I desperately miss being young!
Vincent Gallo looks exactly like Jesus Christ!
We drove around ‘mooning’ everyone!
Clowns are ironic!
The American flag is ironic! (Ol’ Bob Frank taught me that)
I like teddy bears!
You’re jealous!
I’m bored!

All that being said I admire Terry's ability to being a bit of an all rounder while remaining a shrewd opportunist and staying true to his core. This is why he is hired and rehired he always brings a little magic to the plate as unexpected as it is expected, not always shocking for shock sake. The secret to this business as any is longevity and Terry has certainly managed this while always remaining relevant, to me at least anyways. As his people are keen to say 'he is a true American original'.

Oh and he looks like he is having lots of fun, here's to you Tel !

The master

With all the action/reaction happening over on Mr Soths blog the last few days, I have to say I was mighty pleased to see that he mentioned fashion photography and how much he enjoyed looking at in Thursdays follow up here to Wednesdays initial thread here concerning Flickr and so much more. I too enjoy fashion photography and one book/photographer sprang to mind when he mentioned that he is just as taken with street fashion photography as he is the more highly polished lavishly produced variety.

The book is one of my all time greats 'Go-Sees' by the master himself the brilliant Juergen Teller. Part fashion, part art, part genius, as anyone who has experienced the model go-see may a test. It is a photographic record by Teller in his own inimitable point and shoot style of all the models who came knocking on his door to sell their wears (themselves) during a calender year, 1998. I had my fair share (go-sees) back in the day and they can often be as awkward as they are necessary. One can't help but realize at times what a cruel and vulnerable business it can be as pretty young girls seem to be a disposable dime a dozen.

This book is a real gem, and with all the debate going on I couldn't but wonder would I have viewed these pictures differently if they had perhaps only been showcased on Flickr or a fashion blog. Does the value and significance of these particular photographs have more gravity and artistic integrity because of their existence solely as printed matter ?

I had been meaning to pluck the book from its resting place for sometime. I picked up a first (only ?) edition back when it was released in 1999 on a trip to London (this would appear to be another good investment as Amazon has copies for sale from $ 198.89 and $ 347.77 see earlier post here on the values of my collecting). Teller has always been one of my favorite shooters. His method has stood the test of time, and though his technique may be deemed by some to be repetitive, he never ceases to amaze and inspire me.

Hey Juergen do us a favor if you are reading this, stop doing a Terry and keep your bits in your pants too ! Thanks man.

Way to go . . . . Vibe

Vibe puts Barack Obama on its September cover and makes the ballsy choice of choosing Terry Richardson to shoot the Presidential hopeful. Obama keeps his shirt and pants on and Terry manages to keep his own trouser snake under wraps. I guess Barack wasn't falling for any of El'Tels usual tricks !

Desktop entrant # 3

This one comes courtesy of Cameron Wittig who I featured in some of my very 1st posts here and here. Cameron says "I shot this last November in Paris with a Yashica T4 from the hill at Sacre Coeur. It's really not a photo of anything specific which is what makes it a good background picture."

Here's to you Cameron !

On a personal note I am very familiar with this part of Paris. I spent a couple of months early in my assisting career living in the neighbourhood below the famed basilica, Pigalle, home of The Moulin Rouge and the infamous touristic red-light district. I have mixed memories of this time spent working there, some good some bad.

Also great to see Cameron still using his T4. For those of you who don't know it was probably the greatest point and shoot film camera ever made. The fixed 35mm, f3.5 Carl Zeiss lens was a winner providing unrivalled sharpness and clarity. It had a durable light weight (6 ounces) weather proofed body body. In case you were wondering it was/is Terry Richardsons camera of choice. It was discontinued a few years back with the demise of Yashica. I do know some people who bought up the remnants and have them sitting @ home all brand new and boxed up. My own one crapped up a few years back and my wife was using the zoom version for some time until the switch to digital. The zoom is still being manufactured by Kyocera and is an excellent camera, featuring a 28-70mm, f4.5-8 Carl Zeiss lens. Oh and heres an old T4 blog I just stumbled on here.